All for Zohan!
Here’s something different… PAW-shion Show at the Doggie Fun Fair 2 has an
interesting theme. Humans will be dressed as their dogs and dogs will come
as th...
10 years ago
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Camera Ready!
Picture with Zohan before I leave for the X'mas Party @ WC!
Taking a nap @ the bean bag!
Playtime for Zohan!
Food Items That Are Big No-Nos for Dogs!
Share lang mga foods/items na bawal sa mga dogs. Googled this from the net.
1. Alcoholic Beverages- beer or any alcoholic drinks can lead to intoxication, coma or death
2. Bones – fish, poultry and other meat resources can cause obstruction or laceration of digestive system
3. Fruits- Prunes, Grapes, Raisins, Citrus fruits, Seeds, stems or leaves of apples, Peaches, Plums, Apricots, Pears, and Cherries are some fruits that should not be fed to dogs. Grapes and raisins have been proven to cause kidney failure in dogs that have in ingested only 2 to 4 ozs. Even one grape is too many. Apple seeds and pits from cherries, peaches, pears, plums and apricots. These fruits are poisonous because they contain cyanide. Allergic reactions can vary and include vomiting, itching, diarrhea, tremors and heart arrhythmia.
4. Human Vitamins that contains iron- Can damage the lining of the digestive system and be toxic to the other organs including the liver and kidneys.
5. Large amounts of liver- Can cause Vitamin A toxicity, which affects muscles and bones.
6. Milk and other dairy products- Some adult dogs and cats do not have sufficient amounts of the enzyme lactase, which breaks down the lactose in milk. This can result in diarrhea. There are Lactose-free milk products available in Groceries (Rustan's) for pets.
7. Mushrooms- May contain toxins, which may affect multiple systems in the body, cause shock, and result in death.
8. Cat food- Cat’s have different nutritional needs w/c is high in protein and fats. That’s why cat’s food is for cats only :p
9. Onions and garlic (raw, cooked, or powder)- Contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia. Cats are more susceptible than dogs. Garlic is less toxic than onions.
10. Raw eggs- Contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may also contain Salmonella.
11. Raw fish- Can result in a thiamine (a B vitamin) deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and in severe cases, death. More common if raw fish is fed regularly.
12. Salt- If eaten in large quantities it may lead to electrolyte imbalances.
13. Sugary foods- Can lead to obesity, dental problems, and possibly diabetes mellitus.
14. Tobacco- Contains nicotine, which affects the digestive and nervous systems. Can result in rapid heart beat, collapse, coma, cancer, and death. For smokers who are also pet lovers, please think of the effects when you smoke. Dogs don’t just inhale smoke; the smoke particles are also trapped in their fur and ingested when they groom themselves with their tongues.
And many many more.......
1. Alcoholic Beverages- beer or any alcoholic drinks can lead to intoxication, coma or death
2. Bones – fish, poultry and other meat resources can cause obstruction or laceration of digestive system
3. Fruits- Prunes, Grapes, Raisins, Citrus fruits, Seeds, stems or leaves of apples, Peaches, Plums, Apricots, Pears, and Cherries are some fruits that should not be fed to dogs. Grapes and raisins have been proven to cause kidney failure in dogs that have in ingested only 2 to 4 ozs. Even one grape is too many. Apple seeds and pits from cherries, peaches, pears, plums and apricots. These fruits are poisonous because they contain cyanide. Allergic reactions can vary and include vomiting, itching, diarrhea, tremors and heart arrhythmia.
4. Human Vitamins that contains iron- Can damage the lining of the digestive system and be toxic to the other organs including the liver and kidneys.
5. Large amounts of liver- Can cause Vitamin A toxicity, which affects muscles and bones.
6. Milk and other dairy products- Some adult dogs and cats do not have sufficient amounts of the enzyme lactase, which breaks down the lactose in milk. This can result in diarrhea. There are Lactose-free milk products available in Groceries (Rustan's) for pets.
7. Mushrooms- May contain toxins, which may affect multiple systems in the body, cause shock, and result in death.
8. Cat food- Cat’s have different nutritional needs w/c is high in protein and fats. That’s why cat’s food is for cats only :p
9. Onions and garlic (raw, cooked, or powder)- Contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia. Cats are more susceptible than dogs. Garlic is less toxic than onions.
10. Raw eggs- Contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may also contain Salmonella.
11. Raw fish- Can result in a thiamine (a B vitamin) deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and in severe cases, death. More common if raw fish is fed regularly.
12. Salt- If eaten in large quantities it may lead to electrolyte imbalances.
13. Sugary foods- Can lead to obesity, dental problems, and possibly diabetes mellitus.
14. Tobacco- Contains nicotine, which affects the digestive and nervous systems. Can result in rapid heart beat, collapse, coma, cancer, and death. For smokers who are also pet lovers, please think of the effects when you smoke. Dogs don’t just inhale smoke; the smoke particles are also trapped in their fur and ingested when they groom themselves with their tongues.
And many many more.......
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
The Wonders of Yakult
I grew up drinking this almost everyday and even up to now, I just can't resist the urge to buy a pack. But what made me so admire this health drink is the fact that not only is it beneficial to humans, they are equally effective as well for dogs & pups!
Yes, the same benefits that a human can get are the same benefits our furfriends can enjoy. I usually give Zohan half a bottle every other day since he began the habit of nibbling whatever he sees on the floor.
I marveled at the effectivity of Yakult when last Sunday, Zohan vomitted twice. I instantly gave him Yakult twice that day and by the afternoon, he was A-ok!
Zohan's New Bed
I previously bought a dog bed for him as soon as we got him from Ms. Jhec.
The dog bed cost Php495.00
The dog bed cost Php495.00
He enjoyed it when he was still young, but as soon as he learned to run around and became bigger, I guess he outgrew his bed already so i bought a simpler one... the old dog bed will now be given to our aunt who's soon to ave a Japanese Spitz pup (yey!)..
Zohan, dozing off in his new "dog" bed!
I bought the "dog bed" at SM for Php 129.00...cheap huh! It was a household throw pillow with intrucate contour which lokked similar to what I saw over at LL Dog Beds!
Pup's New Tricks
Wow!
Zohan has finally learned to climed up the stairs...and what a speed!
Yehey, everyone inside the house was so thrilled!
Hopefully matuto din siyang bumaba kasi as for now, di niya alam how!
Zohan has finally learned to climed up the stairs...and what a speed!
Yehey, everyone inside the house was so thrilled!
Hopefully matuto din siyang bumaba kasi as for now, di niya alam how!
Monday, December 21, 2009
21 Symptoms That Should Never Be Ignored In Your Dog
Knowing when to get your dog to the veterinarian can save his or her life! There are serious symptoms that should never be ignored in your dog.
First, what is a symptom? A symptom is defined as "any problem that can indicate an underlying disease" and may be your first clue to the presence of a life-threatening problem in your pooch. Some of these symptoms are obvious, but others are not. If you don’t know what they are you may not know if your dog is a little off or extremely ill.
Read our list of 21 symptoms that should never be ignored in your dog. The symptoms include:
1. Pacing and Restlessness
2. Unproductive retching
3. Collapse or Fainting
4. Not Eating or Loss of Appetite
5. Loosing Weight
6. Breathing Problems
7. Red Eye
8. Jaundice
9. Trouble Urinating
10. Urinating and Drinking Excessively
11. Fever
12. Seizure
13. Bleeding and Bruising
14. Coughing
15. Bloated or distended abdomen
16. Bloody Diarrhea
17. Bloody Urine
18. Bite Wounds
19. Bloody Vomit
20. Lethargy or Weakness
21. Pale Gums
First, what is a symptom? A symptom is defined as "any problem that can indicate an underlying disease" and may be your first clue to the presence of a life-threatening problem in your pooch. Some of these symptoms are obvious, but others are not. If you don’t know what they are you may not know if your dog is a little off or extremely ill.
Read our list of 21 symptoms that should never be ignored in your dog. The symptoms include:
1. Pacing and Restlessness
2. Unproductive retching
3. Collapse or Fainting
4. Not Eating or Loss of Appetite
5. Loosing Weight
6. Breathing Problems
7. Red Eye
8. Jaundice
9. Trouble Urinating
10. Urinating and Drinking Excessively
11. Fever
12. Seizure
13. Bleeding and Bruising
14. Coughing
15. Bloated or distended abdomen
16. Bloody Diarrhea
17. Bloody Urine
18. Bite Wounds
19. Bloody Vomit
20. Lethargy or Weakness
21. Pale Gums
Dog Tees
Nowadays, grooming your pet isn't just enough...you just have to dress them up as well. There are a variety of dog dresses being sold in the market. You can choose to go trendy, sporty, casual or seasonal. As for dog dresses, be prepared to stash bet Php75.00 for a simple tee to around Php450.00 for some high end fashion.
I usually buy Zohan's clothes from Pawsh Couture (striped polo) or from Pet Passion at Hobbies of Asia..
Striped tee (Php 200.00, Pawsh Couture)
Alpo's 2-in-1 Shampoo for Puppy
Lhasa Apso's coat are to die for. They can easily stump on Shiz in a dog show.
But the thing is, no matter how beautiful his coat, it’s still prone to matting (tangling)...and the usual dog smell. It’s a real challenge keeping it as it is. Keeping him all prepped up is easy-it may just require patience.
Like humans, a dog's coat can sleek and shiny with regular brushing and the use of a shampoo and conditioner combination. We haven’t tried any other dog shampoo brand brand yet since the Vet has just given us a go-signal to have him bathed(this is the first shampoo we bought for Zohan), but so far, his coat seems to be reacting well to Alpo’s 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner for pups.
But the thing is, no matter how beautiful his coat, it’s still prone to matting (tangling)...and the usual dog smell. It’s a real challenge keeping it as it is. Keeping him all prepped up is easy-it may just require patience.
Like humans, a dog's coat can sleek and shiny with regular brushing and the use of a shampoo and conditioner combination. We haven’t tried any other dog shampoo brand brand yet since the Vet has just given us a go-signal to have him bathed(this is the first shampoo we bought for Zohan), but so far, his coat seems to be reacting well to Alpo’s 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner for pups.
Saturday, December 19, 2009
Know Your 5-in-1 and 6-in-1 Vaccine
5 in 1 DHPP, and 6 in 1 - DHLPP
The 5 in 1 vaccination provides protection from Distemper, Hepatitis (Adenovirus type 2), Parainfluenza, & Parvovirus. The 6 in 1 vaccination provides protection against the aforementioned diseases, as well as against Leptospirosis. This vaccination is the most important vaccination and may start as early as 8 weeks in healthy dogs, boostered until 4 months old. Below are descriptions of the diseases from which the 5 in1 (DHPP) vaccination protects puppies & dogs.
A. Distemper
Basics
This virus is part of what the DHPP, or 5 in 1 (or 6 in 1), vaccine fights. This is the "D" in DHPP, DHLPP, or the main part of the 5 in 1 and 6 in 1 vaccine. This is the most important vaccine a dog should get!!!!
Distemper is widespread, serious, often deadly, and can affect almost any carnivore, wild or domestic. Canine distemper is a contagious viral disease, seen most frequently in puppies 3 to 6 months old, but dogs of all ages are at risk..
Early signs of the disease are fever, loss of appetite, lethargy, conjunctivitis (runny eyes), and sometimes a nasal discharge.
As the disease progresses, symptoms include diarrhea, pneumonia, convulsions, and paralysis. Prevention by vaccination is recommended as the essential means of controlling canine distemper. Start vaccinating ideally at 8 weeks, then re-vaccinate every 2-4 weeks until 16 weeks, then annual booster.
Specifics
Called "The Great Masquerader", canine distemper disease can infect any organ system, but frequently attacks the nervous system. 90% of dogs that become infected will die. The disease is difficult to survive, since young puppies are most frequently infected. Thus, vaccination is essential.
B. Hepatitis
Basics
Another component of the 5 in 1 and 6 in 1, or DHPP/DHLPP vaccine. Infectious Canine Hepatitis is a contagious viral disease that affects the dog's liver, primarily. Early signs are similar to those seen in Distemper. The disease is transmitted by direct contact with urine from an infected dog. The canine strain of hepatitis does not cause hepatitis in humans.
This disease can cause fever, enlarged liver, pain, and even death. It can also cause respiratory tract illness. Vaccination with the Adenovirus Type 2 vaccine (CAV-2) is very effective in preventing this disease.
Specifics
Adenovirus type 1 causes Hepatitis, but you never want to vaccinate with with the Adenovirus 1 (CAV-1) vaccine, which can cause severe side-effects (blue-eye, kidney infections). Adenovirus type 2 causes pneumonia. Respiratory tract illness caused by type 2 is spread by aerosol droplets. The vaccine (type 2, CAV-2) provides protection for both type 1 and type 2 infections. So Luv My Pet, Inc. uses this vaccine safely.
C. Leptospirosis
Basics
This is the final component of the 6 in 1, or DHLPP vaccine. (not included in the 5 in 1 – DHPP vaccine).
Leptospirosis is an infectious bacterial disease transmitted by contact with the urine of an infected dog, rat, or other wildlife. Infection occurs through oral mucous membranes, the cornea of the eye and the skin. The disease can produce very severe symptoms of high fever, depression, jaundice and internal bleeding, and eventual death. Recovered animals may suffer from chronic kidney disease.
Any dog that goes outside to use the bathroom, or has a chance to sniff puddles of water, can be at risk for Lepto, especially in areas with rodents and racoons. Unless your dog is allergic to the vaccine, it is recommended for most dogs over 3 months of age.
Specifics
Leptospirosis can be spread from dogs to humans, so prevention of the disease in pets is of paramount importance. Dogs often become carriers and shedders of the bacterial organism, thus vaccination is a most important element in controlling the disease. Nonetheless, there are some possible "negatives" attached to this vaccine.
For example, there are many strains of Lepto that can cause the disease. However, there is no vaccine currently available to use as protection against many of these strains. Also, this vaccine often causes allergic reactions, fever, and muscle aches in vaccinated pets. Also, the vaccine is only good for about 4-6 months.
Therefore, we recommend vaccination with Lepto IF the dog is specifically at risk, but otherwise not to give the vaccine.
Dogs at risk include hunting dogs, dogs with access to marshy water, low-laying or standing water, and lakes.
Other at-risk canines include dogs that interact with rodents, or have rodents in their environment.
Ft. Dodge offers a vaccine for Lepto that contains 4 different strains. This product should be used if the dog is at risk for Lepto.
D. Parvovirus
Basics
Another part of the DHPP or DHLPP vaccines. (5 in 1 and 6 in 1) This virus causes bloody diarrhea and vomiting, and mainly infects puppies. Parvo is highly contagious and difficult to survive – dogs must be hospitalized to live. The bills can reach over $1,000 and the dog may still die. Vaccination is the safe and recommended preventative course of action.
Specifics
Transmission of Parvovirus organisms occurs through the infected dog's feces and can be transported on the fur/hair or feet of infected dogs, on clothing and by contact with inanimate objects like food bowls and toys. The virus is particularly resistant and can persist in the environment for many months. Minimizing contact with other dogs and their stool and the use of a chlorine-based disinfectant can control the spread of the disease to some degree.
Parvovirus is highly contagious, and attacks rapidly dividing cells, most commonly intestinal cells, and sometimes the heart muscle cells as well. Because the intestinal cells are destroyed, nothing is able to be absorbed in the intestines, and violent, bloody diarrhea and vomiting results. Secondary endotoxic shock occurs, forming infection through the denuded intestinal tract. Dogs in this condition quickly dehydrate. Giving any food or medications by mouth to a dog infected with Parvovirus only worsens the situation, therefore parvoviral infections require hospital stays to receive intravenous medications and hydration. Even hospitalization and treatment does not ensure recovery from Parvovirus. Therefore, vaccination is recommended – ideally starting at 8 weeks old, vaccinating every 2-4 weeks until at least 16 week of age, then booster annually.
Note: Rottweillers & Dobermans have an immune system weakness for this virus and should get boostered up to 20 weeks of age.
E. Parainfluenza
Basics
Another part of the DHPP or DHLPP vaccines. (5 in 1 and 6 in 1)
Parainfluenza is a common, though highly contagious, viral upper respiratory disease. The signs may be very mild, but may progress if other conditions exist. Since signs are mild, the disease can be spread to other unprotected dogs without being readily noticed.
Specifics
Transmitted by sneezing or coughing (nasal secretions by infected dogs), Parainfluenza contributes to upper respiratory disease and infection tracheobronchitis. The vaccine to protect against this disease is combined with other vaccines (in 5 and 6 in 1 vaccine) to offer broader protection. We recommend starting vaccination as early as 8 weeks old, vaccinating every 2-4 weeks until 16 weeks old, then booster annually.
Possible side effects from the 5 in 1 (DHPP) include depression, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, fever, muscle aches in some dogs. However, these side effects are transient
http://www.luvmypet.com/vaccination-info.html
The 5 in 1 vaccination provides protection from Distemper, Hepatitis (Adenovirus type 2), Parainfluenza, & Parvovirus. The 6 in 1 vaccination provides protection against the aforementioned diseases, as well as against Leptospirosis. This vaccination is the most important vaccination and may start as early as 8 weeks in healthy dogs, boostered until 4 months old. Below are descriptions of the diseases from which the 5 in1 (DHPP) vaccination protects puppies & dogs.
A. Distemper
Basics
This virus is part of what the DHPP, or 5 in 1 (or 6 in 1), vaccine fights. This is the "D" in DHPP, DHLPP, or the main part of the 5 in 1 and 6 in 1 vaccine. This is the most important vaccine a dog should get!!!!
Distemper is widespread, serious, often deadly, and can affect almost any carnivore, wild or domestic. Canine distemper is a contagious viral disease, seen most frequently in puppies 3 to 6 months old, but dogs of all ages are at risk..
Early signs of the disease are fever, loss of appetite, lethargy, conjunctivitis (runny eyes), and sometimes a nasal discharge.
As the disease progresses, symptoms include diarrhea, pneumonia, convulsions, and paralysis. Prevention by vaccination is recommended as the essential means of controlling canine distemper. Start vaccinating ideally at 8 weeks, then re-vaccinate every 2-4 weeks until 16 weeks, then annual booster.
Specifics
Called "The Great Masquerader", canine distemper disease can infect any organ system, but frequently attacks the nervous system. 90% of dogs that become infected will die. The disease is difficult to survive, since young puppies are most frequently infected. Thus, vaccination is essential.
B. Hepatitis
Basics
Another component of the 5 in 1 and 6 in 1, or DHPP/DHLPP vaccine. Infectious Canine Hepatitis is a contagious viral disease that affects the dog's liver, primarily. Early signs are similar to those seen in Distemper. The disease is transmitted by direct contact with urine from an infected dog. The canine strain of hepatitis does not cause hepatitis in humans.
This disease can cause fever, enlarged liver, pain, and even death. It can also cause respiratory tract illness. Vaccination with the Adenovirus Type 2 vaccine (CAV-2) is very effective in preventing this disease.
Specifics
Adenovirus type 1 causes Hepatitis, but you never want to vaccinate with with the Adenovirus 1 (CAV-1) vaccine, which can cause severe side-effects (blue-eye, kidney infections). Adenovirus type 2 causes pneumonia. Respiratory tract illness caused by type 2 is spread by aerosol droplets. The vaccine (type 2, CAV-2) provides protection for both type 1 and type 2 infections. So Luv My Pet, Inc. uses this vaccine safely.
C. Leptospirosis
Basics
This is the final component of the 6 in 1, or DHLPP vaccine. (not included in the 5 in 1 – DHPP vaccine).
Leptospirosis is an infectious bacterial disease transmitted by contact with the urine of an infected dog, rat, or other wildlife. Infection occurs through oral mucous membranes, the cornea of the eye and the skin. The disease can produce very severe symptoms of high fever, depression, jaundice and internal bleeding, and eventual death. Recovered animals may suffer from chronic kidney disease.
Any dog that goes outside to use the bathroom, or has a chance to sniff puddles of water, can be at risk for Lepto, especially in areas with rodents and racoons. Unless your dog is allergic to the vaccine, it is recommended for most dogs over 3 months of age.
Specifics
Leptospirosis can be spread from dogs to humans, so prevention of the disease in pets is of paramount importance. Dogs often become carriers and shedders of the bacterial organism, thus vaccination is a most important element in controlling the disease. Nonetheless, there are some possible "negatives" attached to this vaccine.
For example, there are many strains of Lepto that can cause the disease. However, there is no vaccine currently available to use as protection against many of these strains. Also, this vaccine often causes allergic reactions, fever, and muscle aches in vaccinated pets. Also, the vaccine is only good for about 4-6 months.
Therefore, we recommend vaccination with Lepto IF the dog is specifically at risk, but otherwise not to give the vaccine.
Dogs at risk include hunting dogs, dogs with access to marshy water, low-laying or standing water, and lakes.
Other at-risk canines include dogs that interact with rodents, or have rodents in their environment.
Ft. Dodge offers a vaccine for Lepto that contains 4 different strains. This product should be used if the dog is at risk for Lepto.
D. Parvovirus
Basics
Another part of the DHPP or DHLPP vaccines. (5 in 1 and 6 in 1) This virus causes bloody diarrhea and vomiting, and mainly infects puppies. Parvo is highly contagious and difficult to survive – dogs must be hospitalized to live. The bills can reach over $1,000 and the dog may still die. Vaccination is the safe and recommended preventative course of action.
Specifics
Transmission of Parvovirus organisms occurs through the infected dog's feces and can be transported on the fur/hair or feet of infected dogs, on clothing and by contact with inanimate objects like food bowls and toys. The virus is particularly resistant and can persist in the environment for many months. Minimizing contact with other dogs and their stool and the use of a chlorine-based disinfectant can control the spread of the disease to some degree.
Parvovirus is highly contagious, and attacks rapidly dividing cells, most commonly intestinal cells, and sometimes the heart muscle cells as well. Because the intestinal cells are destroyed, nothing is able to be absorbed in the intestines, and violent, bloody diarrhea and vomiting results. Secondary endotoxic shock occurs, forming infection through the denuded intestinal tract. Dogs in this condition quickly dehydrate. Giving any food or medications by mouth to a dog infected with Parvovirus only worsens the situation, therefore parvoviral infections require hospital stays to receive intravenous medications and hydration. Even hospitalization and treatment does not ensure recovery from Parvovirus. Therefore, vaccination is recommended – ideally starting at 8 weeks old, vaccinating every 2-4 weeks until at least 16 week of age, then booster annually.
Note: Rottweillers & Dobermans have an immune system weakness for this virus and should get boostered up to 20 weeks of age.
E. Parainfluenza
Basics
Another part of the DHPP or DHLPP vaccines. (5 in 1 and 6 in 1)
Parainfluenza is a common, though highly contagious, viral upper respiratory disease. The signs may be very mild, but may progress if other conditions exist. Since signs are mild, the disease can be spread to other unprotected dogs without being readily noticed.
Specifics
Transmitted by sneezing or coughing (nasal secretions by infected dogs), Parainfluenza contributes to upper respiratory disease and infection tracheobronchitis. The vaccine to protect against this disease is combined with other vaccines (in 5 and 6 in 1 vaccine) to offer broader protection. We recommend starting vaccination as early as 8 weeks old, vaccinating every 2-4 weeks until 16 weeks old, then booster annually.
Possible side effects from the 5 in 1 (DHPP) include depression, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, fever, muscle aches in some dogs. However, these side effects are transient
http://www.luvmypet.com/vaccination-info.html
Sunday, December 13, 2009
Personalized Dog Tag
(photo from http://pawshcouture.multiply.com/)I'm so excited about my latest buy for Zohan-a personalized dog id tag. I was able to find one ( after a tedious search) from Pawsh Couture.
Our transaction was hassle free and it's a good thing that she's joining a bazaar at Cuenca (Ayala Alabang) because Im picking up Zohan's dog bone pet id tag!
It will bear his name in front, along with his birthdate andmy contact number at the back.
Dog Cologne
Pups are supposed to be bathed once a week...so you can imagine that, well, they stick...what I usually do is to use baby wipes just as so he smells good in between baths and put on dog cologne-yup they do have colognes specifically for pooches.
Zohan for one, is fond of sitting on my lap!
I remember being told that our perfume causes our pooches to sneeze so they are definitely to strong for them Glad I was able to buy Top Dog Cologne (Php170.00, Pet Passion) in Tutti Frutti scent! There are other brands in the markt but they are way too expensive like Pet Crazy Dog (Php 399.75 @ Ace Hardware).
Zohan for one, is fond of sitting on my lap!
I remember being told that our perfume causes our pooches to sneeze so they are definitely to strong for them Glad I was able to buy Top Dog Cologne (Php170.00, Pet Passion) in Tutti Frutti scent! There are other brands in the markt but they are way too expensive like Pet Crazy Dog (Php 399.75 @ Ace Hardware).
(Photo from http://dogfashionista.com/)
Friday, December 11, 2009
The Anti-Parvo/Distemper Vaccine
Zohan is set to have his anti-parvo/distemper vaccine. Originally, he was scheduled to have either the 5-in-1 or the 6-in-1 vaccine b ut after reading how fatal parvo is to pups, I told the vet that we prefer to have the anti-parvo/distemper first.
Dozing off after his vaccination!
Date: December 11, 2009
Weight: 800 grams
Manufacturer: Biocan Puppy-D
Monday, December 7, 2009
First Vet Visit
Our vet: Vet's Nook
Address: Avenida, Nahayang Pag-asa, Molino 3, Bacoor, Cavite
Veterinarian: Dr. Isidro Oblino
License #: 5827
Our Experience:
well, super ok sa vet's nook. It looks like a hospital for humans, imagine 3-flr bldg sila with an animal/pet supply beside it. They are open 24 hrs.
They called Zohan "Bulilit" and Dr. Oblino immediately started the SOPs.
He was weighed, half a kilo. His ears checked as well and he got dewormed and was given a shot of Vit. B Complex.
He is due for his anti-parvo/distemper vaccine next week.
Vitality: Thumbs Up
Our Vet suggested we start feeding Zohan on dog bowls and introduce dog food instead of puppy formulla alone. We bought one at Ace Hardware for Php70.00 and thought of buying a shampoo (Alpo, Php 199.75) for pups as well.
We bought Vitality High Energy (Php110.00/kilo) since I read a lot of good reviews about the product-solid stool with less odor.
We never had difficulty introducing the dog bowl to Zohan...we just pound the dog food and soften it with his milk...and he likes it a lot!
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Crate Trained
After sometime of observing Zohan, we noticed that he always keeps his place clean.
Never did he pee or poop in his gog bed or near his dog bed...while I was wandering at this marvel, I read across " Crate training" and was surprised to know that Zohan, indeed was crate trained!
Yey!
Here is an article about Crate Training Puppies from:
What is a Dog Crate ?
A dog "crate" is the general term referring to a rectangular enclosure consisting of a top, a floor, 3 sides, and a door. Crates can be constructed of wire, wood, metal, molded plastic or a combination of these materials. The purpose of a crate is to provide a secure short-term confinement area for safety, housebreaking, protection of household goods, travel, illness, or general control.
Veterinarians, dog show exhibitors, obedience and field trial competitors, trainers, breeders, groomers, and anyone who regularly handles dogs have accepted, trusted, and routinely used dog crates since their inception. It is the individual pet owners, who for the most part, have rejected the idea of using a dog crate. Most consider the use of a crate as unfair confinement, or even harmful to the dog.
IS CRATE TRAINING AN ACT OF CRUELTY - OR KINDNESS ?
As seen by Some Pet Owners :
"Its like living in jail - its cruel - I'd never put my dog in a cage." For many typical pet owners, this is their first reaction. Being human beings, who value freedom, they envision crates a inhumane. Considering your pet as an extension of your human family, you do not wish to inflict unjust punishment upon your 4 legged child. Ask yourself if you would raise a child without a playpen or a crib to sleep in ?
As Perceived by the Dog :
"I love having a place of my own; I have my blanket, my favorite toys, no body bothers me in here, it's all mine." OK, so this isn't a direct quote, but try to see a crate from another point of view. Dogs have a den instinct. The dog crate helps to satisfy this instinct. You see it as closed in - he sees it a security. You may object to being controlled - he only wants to please you and do whatever you wish.
To you it is a "cage" - to him it is "home."
WHY WOULD I NEED A CRATE ?
Correctly and humanely used, a dog crate can have many advantages for both you and your pet. With the use of a crate you can:
enjoy complete peace of mind when leaving your dog home alone, secure in your knowledge that you will not discover anything soiled or damaged upon your return, and that your dog is comfortable, safe, and not getting into any bad habits.
because dogs tend not to soil where they sleep - housebreaking your puppy can become easier. The close confinement of the crate encourages control, helps to establish a routine for outdoor elimination, and can help avoid "accidents" during the night or when left alone.
create an area to confine your dog at those times when his curiosity can be detrimental such as getting underfoot at meal time, or during family activities, or when you have guests.
travel safely - the driver won't be distracted, in the event that the driver has to hit the brakes the dog will not be thrown about the car.
Your dog can:
enjoy the security of his "den" - his own place to retreat when tired, or ill.
can avoid the confusion and punishment resulting from problem behavior.
can more easily learn bowel and bladder control, and to associate elimination with going outdoors.
can be spared the isolation of being in a basement, garage, or the backyard.
can be included in family outings - rather than left alone or in a boarding kennel.
You want your pet to be part of your family and to show appropriate behavior. Your pet wants to please you. A dog crate can help you to develop the bond and relationship you both desire.
USE a Crate - Don't ABUSE a Crate
A dog crate is not recommended for a dog that will routinely left alone all day. If long term crating is to be attempted, the dog must be well exercised both before and after crating, the dog will also need lots of personal attention, and should be allowed freedom at night (even sleeping near his owner). It is also critical that the crate be large enough to enable the dog to fully stretch out and freedom of movement. The crate must have a clip-on water dish. Under ideal circumstances, if you can arrange to have someone provide an exercise and attention period during the day; the crate retains it's "den" attributes as opposed to solitary confinement.
Regarding puppies, a crate must be strictly used as a "play-pen" for general confinement. It must have adequate space for a sleeping area at one end and potty papers at the other. The crate should also be equipped with a clip-on water dish and dry food bowl. A puppy can be raised in this manner, but be sure that the puppy has a great deal of human contact, frequent breaks from confinement (for more than just outside to potty).
To be well adjusted family member a dog needs human contact, whether the animal is crated or not, your dog needs play time, training time, and a time to simply relax in the company of the family to which he is a part (his pack).
WHAT KIND OF CRATE SHOULD I GET ?
Each style of crate has advantages and disadvantages; therefore it will be up to you to determine which style of crate best suits your needs. Collapsible wire mesh crates have the advantage if being collapsible for transport, they have great air flow, and enable the puppy to see a wide portion of his surrounding area. Wire mesh crates however are difficult to clean, considering that debris will trap within the meshing. A wooden crate may "fit" more appropriately with your furniture, but they are heavy to move, and wood can not be cleaned as well as a non-pourous surface. Metal crates also come in a collapsible style, but they are heavy to move and have a restricted visibility range. Molded plastic crates are lightweight, and easy to clean, however they do not collapse, making them awkward to transport or store.
HOW BIG SHOULD THE CRATE BE ?
The crate should be long enough to allow the dog to lay down stretched out flat on his side, and tall enough to allow the dog to sit up without hitting his head. With purebred puppies the adult size is fairly easy to predict. Most crates are now in standardized size ranges; so selecting one that is appropriate for your dog has become much less complicated. When in doubt, get the next larger size. It is always better to have a crate that is too large as opposed to one that is too small.
CRATE LOCATION IN THE HOME
Since the primary reason for using a crate is to confine the dog without isolating him, the crate should be placed in, or as close as possible, to a "people area". Areas such as the kitchen, family room etc. The crate should be positioned in a corner or have the sides and back loosely draped with a sheet or towel in order to enhance its den like appearance for the puppy. The crate location should also be free from drafts and not too near a direct heat source.
Admittedly, a dog crate is not among those items considered "beautiful" furnishings ... it does however provide your puppy with his own room, and enables your home to remain intact while the pups training is progressing.
CRATING A PUPPY
A young puppy (8-16 weeks) should normally adjust well to a crate as being his "own place." Any initial complaints he might voice are not normally due to the crate, but rather about his learning to accept the controls associated with his unfamiliar environment. The crate will help him to adjust to his new world more easily and quickly, since he is being introduced to this new world only a small portion at a time.
Crating Routine
With the crate situated in it's location, the crate needs to be furnished. Bedding can be provided by using an on towel or piece of blanket which can be washed (should an accident occur) and some worn unlaundered article of clothing such as a tee shirt, or old shirt (to help familiarize him with your scent). Do not put food or water in a puppy crate. The puppy will only upset the dishes, and this is his bedroom - you do not eat in bed.
Make it clear to children that the crate is not a "playpen" for them, it is the puppy's room. You should, however accustom the puppy from the start that people can reach into the crate at any time, so that the puppy does not become overly protective of his crate.
A "crate routine" should be established immediately, closing the puppy in the crate at regular intervals for 1 to 2 hours during the day. The puppy's nap times will help guide you in establishing these times. Additionally, whenever the puppy must be left alone for a period of time, or is going to be unsupervised the pup should be crated. Prior to crating, be sure to remove the pup's collar which could become caught in an opening.
At night, in the beginning, you may want to place the crate in a small enclosed area such as a bathroom or laundry room. Placing the crate in this area with the door left open and newspapers nearby, enables the pup to relieve itself without soiling it's crate. Once the pup matures he will develop greater bladder and bowel control. When the pup has sufficient control, and if there is no intestinal upset, he can be crated all night in his usual place.
There may be setbacks - but don't give up - the keys are consistency and perseverance. The pup will adjust to the routine - you will have a secure well adjusted companion.
If you do not choose, or not able, to use the crate permanently, you should plan on using the crate for at least 5 to 6 months. At this age your pup will be past the teething phase - at which time you can start leaving the crate door open at night, or when someone is at home during the day, or when he is going to be left alone for a brief period of time. If there are no incidences for a week or two, and the dog is behaving well when left alone, you may be ready to remove the crate itself and place the dog's bedding in the same spot. Initially the dog may miss the crate enclosure, but the dog still has his "place", and the habit of good behavior should continue. If any problems arise the crate routine can be re-established.
CRATING AN ADULT DOG
The most commom behavior problem of older puppies (over 6 months) or adult dogs is caused by the lack of a feeling of security when left alone. A crate can help to fulfill this need, and will hopefully solve the problems, but it must be introduced gradually. You must make every possible effort to be sure that the dog's association with the crate is positive and pleasant. The owner must also remember that the crate is not to be used for frequent long-period usage.
How to condition the dog to the crate
Be sure that the crate is of adequate size (see How Big Should the Crate Be ?). Be sure that the crate is properly positioned (see Crate Location in The Home). Secure the door open, so that it can not accidently shut and frighten the dog. Do not put the bedding in the crate. Allow the dog to investigate the crate, then lure the dog inside the crate by tossing "special" tidbits (cheese, liver, hotdog) into the far end. Allow the dog to turn and come back out. Praise him enthusiastically for his conquest of his fears. When the dog is confidently entering the crate place his bedding and an object with your scent in the crate. Coax the dog inside the crate and try to intice him (with food if necessary) to lie down and relax. Do not wrestle him into place, he must be comfortable - not forced. Continue this pattern for several days. Encourage the dog to use the crate as much as possible, and shutting the door briefly while you sit beside him or are nearby. The dog may resist in your efforts to give him a secure home. You must remain firm and consistant, so that the dog will understand you want him to be in the crate and be quiet. He may not be content in the crate but he will accept that this is your desire.
As soon as he has accepted the crate and you are confident that he will remain quiet when closed in, you can safely leave him alone. Give him a chew toy or a safe bone to entertain him while you are gone. Be sure that his collar is removed, so that it won't get caught on anything. You may want your first outing to be brief (1/2 to 1 hour), proving to yourself that he has quietly accepted confinement and reassuring him that you have indeed come back to him. With the acceptance of the crate as his "special place" the dog will stop being a problem and start being a pleasure. In due time you may be able to start weaning him from use of the crate without resuming problem behavior.
Is Crating Alway Successful ?
Unfortunately, no. Nothing is 100 percent for all dogs, each dog is an individual. Success rates are much higher for puppies, than for "senior' dogs. If, despite every effort at positive conditioning and genuine firmness, the dog is obviously frantic or totally miserable when confined to a crate, then forcing the animal into such a situation is indeed inhumane and can result in physical injury when the dog trys to chew his way out.
Never did he pee or poop in his gog bed or near his dog bed...while I was wandering at this marvel, I read across " Crate training" and was surprised to know that Zohan, indeed was crate trained!
Yey!
Here is an article about Crate Training Puppies from:
What is a Dog Crate ?
A dog "crate" is the general term referring to a rectangular enclosure consisting of a top, a floor, 3 sides, and a door. Crates can be constructed of wire, wood, metal, molded plastic or a combination of these materials. The purpose of a crate is to provide a secure short-term confinement area for safety, housebreaking, protection of household goods, travel, illness, or general control.
Veterinarians, dog show exhibitors, obedience and field trial competitors, trainers, breeders, groomers, and anyone who regularly handles dogs have accepted, trusted, and routinely used dog crates since their inception. It is the individual pet owners, who for the most part, have rejected the idea of using a dog crate. Most consider the use of a crate as unfair confinement, or even harmful to the dog.
IS CRATE TRAINING AN ACT OF CRUELTY - OR KINDNESS ?
As seen by Some Pet Owners :
"Its like living in jail - its cruel - I'd never put my dog in a cage." For many typical pet owners, this is their first reaction. Being human beings, who value freedom, they envision crates a inhumane. Considering your pet as an extension of your human family, you do not wish to inflict unjust punishment upon your 4 legged child. Ask yourself if you would raise a child without a playpen or a crib to sleep in ?
As Perceived by the Dog :
"I love having a place of my own; I have my blanket, my favorite toys, no body bothers me in here, it's all mine." OK, so this isn't a direct quote, but try to see a crate from another point of view. Dogs have a den instinct. The dog crate helps to satisfy this instinct. You see it as closed in - he sees it a security. You may object to being controlled - he only wants to please you and do whatever you wish.
To you it is a "cage" - to him it is "home."
WHY WOULD I NEED A CRATE ?
Correctly and humanely used, a dog crate can have many advantages for both you and your pet. With the use of a crate you can:
enjoy complete peace of mind when leaving your dog home alone, secure in your knowledge that you will not discover anything soiled or damaged upon your return, and that your dog is comfortable, safe, and not getting into any bad habits.
because dogs tend not to soil where they sleep - housebreaking your puppy can become easier. The close confinement of the crate encourages control, helps to establish a routine for outdoor elimination, and can help avoid "accidents" during the night or when left alone.
create an area to confine your dog at those times when his curiosity can be detrimental such as getting underfoot at meal time, or during family activities, or when you have guests.
travel safely - the driver won't be distracted, in the event that the driver has to hit the brakes the dog will not be thrown about the car.
Your dog can:
enjoy the security of his "den" - his own place to retreat when tired, or ill.
can avoid the confusion and punishment resulting from problem behavior.
can more easily learn bowel and bladder control, and to associate elimination with going outdoors.
can be spared the isolation of being in a basement, garage, or the backyard.
can be included in family outings - rather than left alone or in a boarding kennel.
You want your pet to be part of your family and to show appropriate behavior. Your pet wants to please you. A dog crate can help you to develop the bond and relationship you both desire.
USE a Crate - Don't ABUSE a Crate
A dog crate is not recommended for a dog that will routinely left alone all day. If long term crating is to be attempted, the dog must be well exercised both before and after crating, the dog will also need lots of personal attention, and should be allowed freedom at night (even sleeping near his owner). It is also critical that the crate be large enough to enable the dog to fully stretch out and freedom of movement. The crate must have a clip-on water dish. Under ideal circumstances, if you can arrange to have someone provide an exercise and attention period during the day; the crate retains it's "den" attributes as opposed to solitary confinement.
Regarding puppies, a crate must be strictly used as a "play-pen" for general confinement. It must have adequate space for a sleeping area at one end and potty papers at the other. The crate should also be equipped with a clip-on water dish and dry food bowl. A puppy can be raised in this manner, but be sure that the puppy has a great deal of human contact, frequent breaks from confinement (for more than just outside to potty).
To be well adjusted family member a dog needs human contact, whether the animal is crated or not, your dog needs play time, training time, and a time to simply relax in the company of the family to which he is a part (his pack).
WHAT KIND OF CRATE SHOULD I GET ?
Each style of crate has advantages and disadvantages; therefore it will be up to you to determine which style of crate best suits your needs. Collapsible wire mesh crates have the advantage if being collapsible for transport, they have great air flow, and enable the puppy to see a wide portion of his surrounding area. Wire mesh crates however are difficult to clean, considering that debris will trap within the meshing. A wooden crate may "fit" more appropriately with your furniture, but they are heavy to move, and wood can not be cleaned as well as a non-pourous surface. Metal crates also come in a collapsible style, but they are heavy to move and have a restricted visibility range. Molded plastic crates are lightweight, and easy to clean, however they do not collapse, making them awkward to transport or store.
HOW BIG SHOULD THE CRATE BE ?
The crate should be long enough to allow the dog to lay down stretched out flat on his side, and tall enough to allow the dog to sit up without hitting his head. With purebred puppies the adult size is fairly easy to predict. Most crates are now in standardized size ranges; so selecting one that is appropriate for your dog has become much less complicated. When in doubt, get the next larger size. It is always better to have a crate that is too large as opposed to one that is too small.
CRATE LOCATION IN THE HOME
Since the primary reason for using a crate is to confine the dog without isolating him, the crate should be placed in, or as close as possible, to a "people area". Areas such as the kitchen, family room etc. The crate should be positioned in a corner or have the sides and back loosely draped with a sheet or towel in order to enhance its den like appearance for the puppy. The crate location should also be free from drafts and not too near a direct heat source.
Admittedly, a dog crate is not among those items considered "beautiful" furnishings ... it does however provide your puppy with his own room, and enables your home to remain intact while the pups training is progressing.
CRATING A PUPPY
A young puppy (8-16 weeks) should normally adjust well to a crate as being his "own place." Any initial complaints he might voice are not normally due to the crate, but rather about his learning to accept the controls associated with his unfamiliar environment. The crate will help him to adjust to his new world more easily and quickly, since he is being introduced to this new world only a small portion at a time.
Crating Routine
With the crate situated in it's location, the crate needs to be furnished. Bedding can be provided by using an on towel or piece of blanket which can be washed (should an accident occur) and some worn unlaundered article of clothing such as a tee shirt, or old shirt (to help familiarize him with your scent). Do not put food or water in a puppy crate. The puppy will only upset the dishes, and this is his bedroom - you do not eat in bed.
Make it clear to children that the crate is not a "playpen" for them, it is the puppy's room. You should, however accustom the puppy from the start that people can reach into the crate at any time, so that the puppy does not become overly protective of his crate.
A "crate routine" should be established immediately, closing the puppy in the crate at regular intervals for 1 to 2 hours during the day. The puppy's nap times will help guide you in establishing these times. Additionally, whenever the puppy must be left alone for a period of time, or is going to be unsupervised the pup should be crated. Prior to crating, be sure to remove the pup's collar which could become caught in an opening.
At night, in the beginning, you may want to place the crate in a small enclosed area such as a bathroom or laundry room. Placing the crate in this area with the door left open and newspapers nearby, enables the pup to relieve itself without soiling it's crate. Once the pup matures he will develop greater bladder and bowel control. When the pup has sufficient control, and if there is no intestinal upset, he can be crated all night in his usual place.
There may be setbacks - but don't give up - the keys are consistency and perseverance. The pup will adjust to the routine - you will have a secure well adjusted companion.
If you do not choose, or not able, to use the crate permanently, you should plan on using the crate for at least 5 to 6 months. At this age your pup will be past the teething phase - at which time you can start leaving the crate door open at night, or when someone is at home during the day, or when he is going to be left alone for a brief period of time. If there are no incidences for a week or two, and the dog is behaving well when left alone, you may be ready to remove the crate itself and place the dog's bedding in the same spot. Initially the dog may miss the crate enclosure, but the dog still has his "place", and the habit of good behavior should continue. If any problems arise the crate routine can be re-established.
CRATING AN ADULT DOG
The most commom behavior problem of older puppies (over 6 months) or adult dogs is caused by the lack of a feeling of security when left alone. A crate can help to fulfill this need, and will hopefully solve the problems, but it must be introduced gradually. You must make every possible effort to be sure that the dog's association with the crate is positive and pleasant. The owner must also remember that the crate is not to be used for frequent long-period usage.
How to condition the dog to the crate
Be sure that the crate is of adequate size (see How Big Should the Crate Be ?). Be sure that the crate is properly positioned (see Crate Location in The Home). Secure the door open, so that it can not accidently shut and frighten the dog. Do not put the bedding in the crate. Allow the dog to investigate the crate, then lure the dog inside the crate by tossing "special" tidbits (cheese, liver, hotdog) into the far end. Allow the dog to turn and come back out. Praise him enthusiastically for his conquest of his fears. When the dog is confidently entering the crate place his bedding and an object with your scent in the crate. Coax the dog inside the crate and try to intice him (with food if necessary) to lie down and relax. Do not wrestle him into place, he must be comfortable - not forced. Continue this pattern for several days. Encourage the dog to use the crate as much as possible, and shutting the door briefly while you sit beside him or are nearby. The dog may resist in your efforts to give him a secure home. You must remain firm and consistant, so that the dog will understand you want him to be in the crate and be quiet. He may not be content in the crate but he will accept that this is your desire.
As soon as he has accepted the crate and you are confident that he will remain quiet when closed in, you can safely leave him alone. Give him a chew toy or a safe bone to entertain him while you are gone. Be sure that his collar is removed, so that it won't get caught on anything. You may want your first outing to be brief (1/2 to 1 hour), proving to yourself that he has quietly accepted confinement and reassuring him that you have indeed come back to him. With the acceptance of the crate as his "special place" the dog will stop being a problem and start being a pleasure. In due time you may be able to start weaning him from use of the crate without resuming problem behavior.
Is Crating Alway Successful ?
Unfortunately, no. Nothing is 100 percent for all dogs, each dog is an individual. Success rates are much higher for puppies, than for "senior' dogs. If, despite every effort at positive conditioning and genuine firmness, the dog is obviously frantic or totally miserable when confined to a crate, then forcing the animal into such a situation is indeed inhumane and can result in physical injury when the dog trys to chew his way out.
Monday, November 30, 2009
Welcoming Zohan Home
We just got a 3-week old, male Lhasa Apso pup. I asked ds if we can adopt a pet and he agrred so I quickly serached over the net for the breed that matches our personality and I was told to choose between Shi Tzus and Lhasas.
I quickly opted Lhasa oer Shi Tzu since their coarts are way better than the Shi's...I was able to look for a seller and it was a quick transaction. We met at Market MArket and I fell in love with this cute, teddy-bear looking male pup.
I bought him a dog carrier and a dog bed so we can finally bring him home!
Friday, November 27, 2009
The Lhasa Apso Breed
The Lhasa Apso is a small, hardy breed with a beautiful cloak of hair that parts down their back from head to tail. Their temperament is unique: joyful and mischievous, dignified and aloof. An independent breed, the Lhasa's goal in life is not necessarily to please their master. Popular in the show ring, the breed also excels at activities that provide constant challenges, such as agility.
Lhasas come in many colors from light blonde to black. Black tippings on ears and face are also common.
A Look Back
The Lhasa Apso originated hundreds of years ago in the isolated reaches of the Himalayan Mountains. It functioned primarily as a household sentinel, guarding homes of Tibetan nobility and Buddhist monasteries, particularly in or near the sacred city of Lhasa. In 1933, C. Suydam Cutting introduced the first Lhasas to the U.S. gifts from the 13th Dalai Lama.
Character
Gay and assertive, but chary of strangers.
Size
Variable, but about 10 inches or 11 inches at shoulder for dogs, bitches slightly smaller.
Color
All colors equally acceptable with or without dark tips to ears and beard.
Body Shape
The length from point of shoulders to point of buttocks longer than height at withers, well ribbed up, strong loin, well-developed quarters and thighs.
Coat
Heavy, straight, hard, not woolly nor silky, of good length, and very dense.
Mouth and Muzzle
The preferred bite is either level or slightly undershot. Muzzle of medium length; a square muzzle is objectionable.
Head
Heavy head furnishings with good fall over eyes, good whiskers and beard; skull narrow, falling away behind the eyes in a marked degree, not quite flat, but not domed or apple-shaped; straight foreface of fair length. Nose black, the length from tip of nose to eye to be roughly about one-third of the total length from nose to back of skull.
Eyes
Dark brown, neither very large and full, nor very small and sunk.
Ears
Pendant, heavily feathered.
Legs
Forelegs straight; both forelegs and hind legs heavily furnished with hair.
Feet
Well feathered, should be round and catlike, with good pads.
Tail and Carriage
Well feathered, should be carried well over back in a screw; there may be a kink at the end. A low carriage of stern is a serious fault.
Lhasas come in many colors from light blonde to black. Black tippings on ears and face are also common.
A Look Back
The Lhasa Apso originated hundreds of years ago in the isolated reaches of the Himalayan Mountains. It functioned primarily as a household sentinel, guarding homes of Tibetan nobility and Buddhist monasteries, particularly in or near the sacred city of Lhasa. In 1933, C. Suydam Cutting introduced the first Lhasas to the U.S. gifts from the 13th Dalai Lama.
Character
Gay and assertive, but chary of strangers.
Size
Variable, but about 10 inches or 11 inches at shoulder for dogs, bitches slightly smaller.
Color
All colors equally acceptable with or without dark tips to ears and beard.
Body Shape
The length from point of shoulders to point of buttocks longer than height at withers, well ribbed up, strong loin, well-developed quarters and thighs.
Coat
Heavy, straight, hard, not woolly nor silky, of good length, and very dense.
Mouth and Muzzle
The preferred bite is either level or slightly undershot. Muzzle of medium length; a square muzzle is objectionable.
Head
Heavy head furnishings with good fall over eyes, good whiskers and beard; skull narrow, falling away behind the eyes in a marked degree, not quite flat, but not domed or apple-shaped; straight foreface of fair length. Nose black, the length from tip of nose to eye to be roughly about one-third of the total length from nose to back of skull.
Eyes
Dark brown, neither very large and full, nor very small and sunk.
Ears
Pendant, heavily feathered.
Legs
Forelegs straight; both forelegs and hind legs heavily furnished with hair.
Feet
Well feathered, should be round and catlike, with good pads.
Tail and Carriage
Well feathered, should be carried well over back in a screw; there may be a kink at the end. A low carriage of stern is a serious fault.
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